This mini-vacation I was aware that I had to dress in layers, knowing that the mountain temperatures can often be unpredictable.After I arrive in Denver and pick up the keys for my rental car I immediately rush to peel off layers. The Chicago temperatures were in the forties when I left and it is now in the seventies. The drive from Denver to Aspen is a scenic 3 1/2 hour drive through the Rocky Mountains, and I am always up for an adventure! Approximately 30 miles outside of Denver I grab for my ski coat, as rather suddenly it begins to snow. A sure sign of temperatures dropping! A few miles later and I am in white-out conditions. (The car rental agency did not make me aware of this possibility but they did strongly encourage an SUV upgrade with snow tires.) Although the signs along the road were barely visible, I could make out wording such as "Falling Rocks", "Watch For Wildlife", and "Runaway Truck Ramp". As my ears were attempting to adjust to the elevation, I searched in vain for an exit which had a Starbucks. I might just want to sit this out for a bit. I knew that the Eisenhower Tunnel at an elevation of 11, 158 ft above sea level, would be approaching. It is the longest mountain tunnel and the highest point on the Interstate Highway System. It would certainly guarantee a brief respite from the blowing snow. These conditions went on for 2 1/2 hours and I was relieved when I approached Glenwood Springs and the snow seemed to magically stop. Could the reason be that the elevation was only 5,700 feet?
If you have never been in Glenwood Springs, Colorado you are in for a treat. As I approach one of the most beautiful 18 mile drives in America, it is difficult to keep my eyes on the road. On my left is the Colorado River which I can tell offers great potential for rafting. Above me are spectacular towering canyons. What an experience it would be to raft at the bottom of these tall canyons. I notice train tracks that hug the base of the canyon wall. Later I learn that there are departures from various points throughout the west and midwest which will journey through this awesome scenery.There are also rail tours offered from Denver to Glenwood Springs.
Can you see the tracks at the base of the canyon?
In the opinion of locals, the most rewarding hike in Glenwood Canyon is that which leads to Hanging Lake. The hike to Hanging Lake is a mile to the top, approximately 1000 feet up. It is short and steep, worth every minute! Once you reach the lake you are rewarded with stunning waterfalls that descend into crystal clear waters.
My directions indicate that the retreat will be 5 miles into the mountains from the main road. There was beauty all around us and a creek which ran through the property. At this sanctuary we are unplugged with extremely limited access to computers and cell phones. We were given wonderfully organic recipes that included salads, asparagus soup and vegetable stir fry. If we were interested we could help in the preparation of our meals which I thoroughly enjoyed! The focus of the retreat was on healthy eating, yoga, chiropractic care, discussions on nutrition and hiking various trails. I was thrilled because I would have plenty of free time to explore the surrounding areas.
Throughout the next few days I drove to the four ski areas that Aspen offers. Every year Aspen is blessed with fresh powder that is measured in feet. There are four distinct areas (Aspen, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass, Buttermilk) and you need to understand their differences so that you are placed in the area that suits your needs. In the summer there are a variety of outdoor sports offered such as mountain biking, horseback riding, golfing, and of course hiking. You definitely want to rent a car so that you can explore the ice caves, the silver mining towns, the many lakes, and Independence Pass. This summer Aspen has summer theater and free concerts, a Food and Wine Classic, and a Jazz Festival. In the summer the beauty simply cannot be beat, the prices are significantly lower, and the crowds thin out. In the winter there is a shuttle among the four ski areas. Of course I had to look at the hotels and all of them that I visited were at the base of the mountain in Aspen. We stopped to have nachos at 39 Degrees, which is in the Sky Hotel. It is hip and trendy, definitely for the younger crowd. Ski season had just ended and Sky Hotel was relatively quiet. I gazed at the slopeside pool with gorgeous views of the looming mountain. The club was stylish offering fireplaces with cozy couches. I couldn't image a better meeting place after a tough day on the slopes.
I also visited the mountain village of Redstone with a population of 92, tucked beneath massive red cliffs and high alpine peaks.
Certainly one of the highlights of this trip was when we ventured to the Yampah Spa Vapor Caves. These are natural underground steam baths located in the hot springs mountain retreat in Glenwood Springs. In the early 1900's everyone from movie stars, European royalty and President Theodore Roosevelt stopped in at the vapor caves. People came to heal their wounds or to use the vapor caves as natural saunas. There are three adjoining underground rock chambers. You inhale the natural steam vapor in the dimly lit chambers. The stillness of the caves is unbelievably relaxing. I was than treated to a seaweed body wrap. It's purpose? To hydrate the skin and facilitate detoxing of the body. I was floating!
Vapor Caves in Glenwood Springs
This long weekend was much to short but I vowed to come back. The drive back to Denver was smooth and scenic. I got a feeling for the ski resorts and their proximity to one another. Vail had a more European feel and reminded me of Zermatt, Switzerland. Aspen is eclectic and trendy. Each ski area is distinctly unique. What they had in common were the multitude of offerings for each season.
What made this weekend so special? Was it the Yampah Spa Vapor Caves, the hike at Hanging Lake, or the fabulous organic home-cooked food at the wellness retreat? It 's all good and I am smiling as I remember another very special destination.
