Under the Tuscan Sun
Sicily and the Region of Tuscany, Italy
"In Italy for 30 years under the Borgias they had warfare, terror, murder and bloodshed but they produced Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and the Renaissance. In Switzerland, they had brotherly love, they had 500 years of democracy and peace and what did they produce? The cuckoo clock." - Orson Welles
Don't get me wrong. I still love Switzerland!
Upon my return from an exhilarating 12 days in Italy, I am convinced that the region of Tuscany in Italy is where I want to spend significant time in the future. Have I finally found the destination that I want to repeatedly return to? I'm not thinking of a rehab project as the movie Under The Tuscan Sun suggests, however the villa selections are plentiful and the thought of a summer in Italy (maybe two weeks to begin) is intoxicating.
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My adventure begins in Sicily, a mountainous island separated from the mainland of Italy by a narrow passage of water.
Only able to allot three nights on the largest island in the Mediterranean is a tough task, so I choose the areas on Sicily which I think are the must- sees. Our first night will be in Agrigento, not only for its historical significance but also for proximity to the airport in Palermo, Sicily, as jet lag is inevitable and you don't want to overdue it on your first day.
My vote: The Valley of the Temples are the most memorable Greek ruins of the ancient world, in part because of their setting.
The Valley of the Temples is Sicily's most famous archaeological park, just outside the town of Agrigento in Sicily. The park consists of eight temples built around 480 B.C. The property I stayed at Hotel Villa Athena was formerly an 18th century villa with spectacular views of the ruins and within walking distance.
Tip: Many writers suggest that these Greek ruins be viewed at dawn or sunset for an unforgettable view. Our terrace looked out onto the the Temple of Concordia where we were able to view the temples at dawn and sunset.
Driving from Agrigento to Taormina only takes 2 1/2 hours ( there is also a train for those who may not be interested in renting a car) and before long we find ourselves winding our way to a beautiful town perched on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. Taormina is a true gem and is best explored on foot. Not to be missed is the Greek Amphitheater which is perched dramatically on the cliffs in the village center. What remains today dates from the 2nd century A.D.
Greek Amphitheater Taormina, Sicily
One of the evenings we were in Taormina, the Italy-Germany (final: 2-1 Italy) semifinal soccer match was being shown on a big screen at the Greek Amphitheater. Needless to say it was packed. As you can imagine, Italians are fanatical about their soccer.
Breakfast at our hotel in Taormina, Sicily
The best beach in Taormina is easily accessed via cable car. Far more interesting in my opinion is Isola Bella, located within a small bay on the Ionian Sea. Boats will take you through wonderful grottoes and will also give you a spectacular view of Taormina from the sea. Looming in the distance is Mount Etna the highest and most active volcano in Europe, last erupting in April 2012. If you wish to visit Mount Etna you will have several options: hiking, horse back riding, or self-guided. For movie buffs, portions of The Godfather were filmed in Savoca and Forza d'Agro outside of Taormina.
**Without a doubt Toarmina, Sicily is poised for a tourism boom.
Italy Part ll
Our flight from Catania, Sicily to Pisa, Italy goes off without a hitch and we anxiously await our stay at a villa in Tuscany for seven nights. As we drive ten minutes up winding roads I feel a sense of calm as the remoteness of the property will provide the best of both worlds: privacy and than the ability to be in close proximity for exciting day trips. Our villa, a beautifully restored farm house is ideally situated on a hilltop surrounded by olive groves, vineyards and woods. One of my favorite features is that the property enjoys a stunning view of the Italian town of Lucca and looks out onto the Tuscan hills for miles.
The estate on which we were situated produced their own organic virgin olive oil and white wine. Lucca is best known for the quality olive oil produced in the region and grown outside the walls of the city.
The best preserved city walls in Europe are in Lucca soaring forty feet high. The shady paved paths on the walls are perfect for cycling.
When choosing the area to call your home for the week it is important to understand what you wish to accomplish. (This is where an excellent travel professional is critical.) In our case it was not only for rest and relaxation, but I also wanted our location to be accessible for day trips in the Tuscany region.
DAY TRIPS
DAY TRIPS
We begin our indoctrination into the region by mapping out our interests on the Chianti Road, twisting and turning narrowly through the hilly terrain of Tuscany's most famous wine region. The entire area of Chianti is only 30 miles from north to south and 20 miles at its widest point. We highlighted the vineyards, castles and villages where we wanted to stop, and made a very enjoyable day of it!
Cinque Terre's Comeback: When a terrific storm rolled across northwest Italy's string of five historic coastal villages in October 2011, the floods carried fishing boats all the way to Morocco and almost wiped the prettiest village Vernazza off the map. While the portions outside of the touristed areas are still recovering, the Vernazza that many know has come back even stronger. There are five villages, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. Once at Cinque Terre (five lands), local trains run between the towns or..... you can hike the towns which is the real way to experience Cinque Terre if you are in good health. Vineyards cling to the steep hills in Cinque Terre and the rocky terrain set among olive and chestnut groves overlooks the gulf of Genoa.
***There were many people who were clearly unsure as to what to do. It it important to speak to a travel professional who can help you pre-plan your day in Cinque Terre so that it is free of uncertainty.***
the village of Manarola
Tip:One of the best meals I had while in Italy (and there were so many) was at the third village, Corniglia at family owned Osteria. The pasta was probably the reason that I could finish the steep hike from Corniglia to Vernazza.
San Gimignano, one of the most charming and picturesque of the Tuscan hill towns is noted mainly for its medieval towers. At one time there were more than 70 towers but today only 14 remain. Spectacular views can be seen from the top of Torre Grossa, the only tower that is accessible. The third weekend in June they host a medieval parade in full costume followed by jousting tournaments.
San Gimignano
Assisi skyline
Assisi is a well-preserved medieval town that is, after the Vatican, Italy's second most popular religious-pilgrimage destination. Assisi was the home of St. Francis and the churches and crypt that bear his name draw a steady stream of people from all over the world.
Siena lies in the scenic hill country of Tuscany. This picturesque, well-preserved medieval town is a treasure trove of art, pageantry and architecture.
Palio di Siena is a horse race that is held twice each year in Siena, Italy. A magnificent pageant proceeds the race as it is held in the main Piazza del Campo.
Festival Tip:Although it can be very hot, July is a great time to head to Tuscany particularly if enjoy festivals. As we meandered back to Rome for our return flight, we stopped for a night in Spoleto to view a ballet performance at the internationally acclaimed music and opera festival held annually. The Palio di Siena took place on July 2nd. Lucca would be having its own festival in the middle of July.
I have hardly mentioned the town of Lucca where we visited frequently for a morning cappuccino and pastry. We thoroughly enjoyed this lovely and unspoiled walled city with beautiful architecture. The evening dining options were impressive as well as the shopping, One evening we went to a performance in the church where Giacomo Puccini was baptized. Here we heard a selection of Puccini's operas. He is undoubtedly Lucca's favorite son.
People rent in Tuscany for a myriad of reasons and to realize your dreams it is important to speak with someone who not only has a good sense of what you are looking for but also the offerings in Tuscany. For what I was looking for this was a perfect situation.
Please give me a call if you would like to talk travel, 630.267.3054.
