CHINA
From Confucius:
"He who knows how to master his soul is the lucky one."
I have traveled to many places but for the first time I was really unsure about what to expect. On China, a book recently released by Henry Kissinger, helped me to get a grasp of this destination's history as well as the recent changes. I had knowledge which was extremely helpful, but was still unsure of what lie ahead for me.
China is one of the oldest nations in the world and is currently the third largest. Its recorded history dates back 5,000 years. The dynasties began in 1000 BC and ended in 1911. It was rare for one dynasty to end calmly and give way to the new one. A chaotic period followed the downfall of the last emperor in 1911. China is now ruled by the Communist Party. The modern China I observed was a land of paradox, and these stark differences appear to be escalating into an era of extreme population growth and a new economic philosophy, brought about by their recent openness to the outside world. There is so much history right alongside the new. However, even as China's cities are being transformed, the people remain rooted in a rich cultural heritage.
When I arrived in Shanghai at 2 in the afternoon, the time was 3AM in Chicago. In essence, my night was your day. My brief tour of Shanghai was fascinating. I had no time to think of my weary body, which was probably a good thing!
Travel Tip: If you are flying internationally, upgrade to business class with points. Don't have the points or budget for a business class ticket? See if economy plus is available. The five extra inches of leg room are worth it.
Shanghai is an intoxicating blend of ancient culture and an ultra modern mega-city. Joined by a guide who greeted me at the airport, we visited the Old Town of Shanghai, where cobbled streets are lined with traditional shops selling herbal medicines, handicrafts, Chinese tea, and a variety of tantalizing snacks, including the ever popular dumplings. Built in 1550, Yu Gardens were my first introduction to classical Chinese gardening, boasting moon gates, peaceful ponds, and latticed pavilions.
Serving tea to guests is an age old custom handed down for generations in China and is widely believed to generate a sense of peace and calm. Chinese tea is categorized into green tea, oolong tea, black tea, white tea, and flower tea. I couldn't think of a more appropriate way to begin my adventure in China than with a tea ceremony at the Huxinting Tea House within the old city of Shanghai. A few years back, Queen Elizabeth visited Shanghai and sipped tea in this elegantly decorated teahouse.
Huxinting Tea House
Next, my guide took me to the historic riverfront area knows as The Bund. Shanghai's history is entrenched in trade, and along the river many attractive new buildings were erected to complement the historical. It was really very cosmopolitan and in many ways reminded me of the lakefront in Chicago.
That night, my jet lag wasn't too bad, however I did email a few of you at three in the morning. Could I be up at that time simply because of the adventure ahead? I was really excited to experience the Yangtze River cruise, which began in Yichang, thereby necessitating a several hour flight from Shanghai. Upon my arrival in Yichang, we drove forty-five minutes out to the country and stopped at a small shop where the traditional art of embroidery had been practiced for generations. Traditional Chinese embroidery is an important and respected skill for women living in the Yangtze River area. Since the era of dynasties beginning in the 1300s, it has been a must for women to practice and has served as a criterion for valuing the ability of a woman. Of course I purchased a beautifully embroidered cloth featuring cliffs of the Yangtze River.
Tujia Women on the Yangtze River
Before I cruised on the Yangtze, I had heard it described as mystical...and that it is!
The mighty Yangtze, the largest river in China, is said to be the cradle of Chinese civilization. The river winds through some of China's most spectacular scenery . The stunning scenery makes the three gorges cruise along the Yangtze a "must do". The river has always been a major means of transport and has a colorful and exciting history. As you can imagine within the cities along the river, daily life was historically tied to the water. For many years, Nanjing, located in the lower Yangtze, was the capital of China during the dynasties.
In the past, flooding along the river has caused serious threats to the environment. As the Yangtze has always been a major means of transportation, flooding caused an inability to move cargo. The Three Gorges Dam, a tremendous engineering feat, was completed in 2008 and increased the river's shipping capacity and reduced potential downstream flooding.
There are various cruises to take on the Yangtze River. The most dramatic and scenic portion and the one that I would highly recommend, includes the Three Gorges. The river navigates through the gorge's sheer, steep cliffs. The principle peaks on the banks are as high as 5000 feet. The turbulent waters flowing in the deep gorge along a continuous line of peaks make for magnificent scenery. Situated on a tributary of the Yangtze, the Lesser Three Gorges, referred to as a shining pearl hidden in the remote mountains, are interspersed with rural scenery and forested areas. Small wooden sampans, a relatively flat-bottomed Chinese wooden boat, enabled us to comfortably enjoy this amazing scenery. 
Qutang Gorge
Besides a narrative on the observation deck of the river cruise, there were several interesting lectures and demonstrations. Every morning, they offered tai chi lessons, a form of Chinese Martial Arts, concentrating on "energy flow" that unites body and mind. It was also fascinating to learn about the holistic approach that the Chinese take to traditional medicine. In Chinese medicine, there is no such thing as a psychosomatic illness, or one that is "all in your head". If you have the symptoms, an imbalance of the integrated whole exists, and chances are it can be treated with acupuncture. Acupuncture, which once seemed like wizardry to traditional medicine practitioners, is recognized worldwide for its ability to effectively treat a wide variety of disorders naturally and holistically-- without the use of harmful drugs or invasive procedures. A demonstration of acupuncture was given. With scheduled appointments, the doctor on board would perform acupuncture (acupuncture needles are sterile and packaged to be used only once). In speaking with several of the guests, they experienced a marked difference in their mobility and general well-being. It is not uncommon for the Chinese people to receive these treatments regularly.
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Tai Chi on the Yangtze River.
After traveling through airports and reviewing my busy itinerary for the next few weeks, I thought that a 45-minute traditional Chinese foot massage was in order. I had read that reflexology and pressure point massage are particular specialties of the Chinese. I was not disappointed and to this day believe that I was able to conquer the Great Wall (upcoming) with little effects because of this intense massage.
Each day with our activities sheet, there were inspirational quotes from Confucius. Confucius is a highly regarded Chinese thinker and social philosopher (551BC-479BC). His philosophy emphasized personal morality, correctness of social relationships, and sincerity. Our daily notices always began with a short quotation from Confucius; Wherever you go, go with your heart. Don't think about what you are lacking, think about what you have. He who knows how to master his soul is the lucky one.
I saw that life along the Yangtze today, in many cases was not that different from years of dynasty rule. The villagers still farm, as if nothing around them is changing. As we floating along this ancient river, I observed modern bridges and roads being constructed, all an indication that this country has big plans for the future.
The four night cruise ended in Chonguing. After I disembarked the river cruise, I had a guide who gave me a tour of Chonquing, then to the airport for a flight to Hong Kong for the second part of my journey.
Captivating a blend of eastern and western cultures, Hong Kong is exciting and vibrant with dramatic contrasts. In my opinion the major sites to see are Victoria Peak, Stanley Market, and Lantau Island.
Victoria Peak is one of the most popular attractions in Hong Kong because the view is absolutely incredible. It is here that you can view the world-famous Victoria Harbor, the spectacular city skyline, and peaceful green hillsides. The Peak Tram which takes you to the top, is not to be missed.
Victoria Peak, Hong Kong
Stanley Market, simply a must-see for anyone traveling to Hong Kong is a popular open-air market, attracting bargain shoppers from all over the world.
Tip: Go in the morning before things get too hot and crowded.
The Po Lin Monastery is nestled amongst the lush mountains of Lantau Island, with views of the world's largest outdoor seated bronze Buddha. We climbed 200 steps to reach the platform where the Buddha is seated. The scenic and recommended way to reach the Po Lin Monastery is via skyrail, with ever-changing scenery across the lush terrain of Lantau Island and the South China Sea.
Incense offerings at the Po Lin Monastery and Buddha
Tip: Bargain everywhere except at restaurants and department stores. Sellers expect it. Hong Kong is a relatively formal city. Appropriate evening dress is a must. Driving is on the left, unlike China.
Macau is an island a short distance from Hong Kong Island, and while we stayed only two nights in Hong Kong, the late afternoon was a perfect time to venture over. We made reservations on the premier Jetfoils, which departs every 15 minutes and is a ride of approximately 45 minutes. Although its population is primarily Chinese, Macau has a distinctly Mediterranean feel and has long been a gambler's destination of choice. In Asia, many compare it to Las Vegas although I find Las Vegas to be superior in just about every way. if you are in Hong Kong, Macau is certainly a destination you will want to visit and it is easily accessible!
My last domestic flight was from Hong Kong to our final destination, Beijing. Again the airports are easy to navigate and Air China is clean and efficient. (They actually serve food on short flights and the flight attendants smile!).
The Jinshanling section of the wall.
An important military fortification in ancient times, The Great Wall snakes throughout mountains and deserts for 14,000 miles. Over 20 dynasties contributed to its construction, which lasted 2000 years. In my humble opinion, an overnight at The Great Wall is an experience to be strongly considered. While my sincere suggestion of sleeping in a watchtower on The Great Wall did get shot down, we compromised on staying in a guesthouse at its base. Where we stayed and hiked at the Jinshanling section of the wall reportedly has the most spectacular views, although it is further from Beijing. If your time only allows for a day trip, the Badaling and Mutianyu sections of the wall are more easily accessible from Beijing.
Real footage from the older section of The Wall.
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Please click arrow to view.
Beijing tip: The easiest way to move around is by taxi, which is much less expensive than in the states. The only downside is that taxi drivers cannot speak English and generally cannot read it. The fastest way to get around the city is by metro. Beyond the major hotels, you will find few people who speak English at all. It is a good idea to have your destination written in Chinese characters. The hotel staff is very helpful in this way.
Three must-do sights in Beijing (besides the Great Wall) include the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, and the Summer Palace.
The emperor's primary imperial palace (Forbidden City) is where 24 emperors reigned over the country for 500 years. Built from 1406 to 1420 the complex consists of 980 buildings and more than a million workers were involved in its construction. many of those who lived within its walls went their whole lives without leaving. It is located in the center of the center between two major temples, symbolizing the role of the emperor in his connection to heavenly rule.
Tip: It would be a good idea to see The Last Emperor, a movie about the life of Puyi the last emperor of the Qing dynasty, before visiting the Forbidden City.
Located in the center of downtown Beijing, to the south of the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square is the largest square in the world. This square became famous worldwide in 1989 when on June the 4th, a peaceful demonstration for freedom and democracy led by students ended in protests and deaths. The topic is still taboo in mainland China. At the southern end of Tiananmen Square is a memorial Hall to China's beloved Chairman Mao Zedong who was the founder of the People's Republic of China, and ruled from 1949-1976. What was so compelling is that when I was visiting Tiananmen Square almost thirty-five years after his death, there were thousands lined up to pay their respects. I was told that this outpouring of reverence for Chairman Mao is not uncommon.
The Summer Palace, used as a summer residence by China's imperial rulers, is located on the western edge of Beijing. It is a blend of Chinese traditional garden arts that feature trees, pavilions, lakes, paths, ponds, and rocks. I would recommend staying the whole day if you have the time. For a small fee you can take a boat out on the lake. This gives you an even different perspective from which to enjoy the beauty. The gardens are named YiHeYuan (Gardens of Peace and Tranquility) and even with its tumultuous history, I did feel a sense of calm.
I have read that the parks at dawn are something to experience. Early the next day we hopped in a cab and our destination was to the Temple of Heaven (built in 1420), where emperors would make offerings to heaven and pray for good harvests. Just west of the temple is Taoranting Park. Space is a premium in crowded Beijing. Many of the older residents raise crickets and birds, keeping them in cages. They are pets and help them to pass the time in the city's parks. It was 7AM and the park was buzzing with activity, as the older Chinese people chanted, exercised, played instruments, cards, and badminton. I had to stop and chuckle when an older Chinese gentleman (with American gym shoes) walked by with a small music box playing a song from the BackStreet Boys.
There was so much else: Badachu Park with its lovely ancient temples, The American Embassy, The Lama Temple, The Drum and Bell Towers, and Quin Hai Hou Hai- the lake district with its banks overflowing with alfresco bars and small shops. I will always remember the Beijing Pearl Market, where you automatically counter with 80% off the price you were given. For many it is a game and I could see that they were having fun. (We had to purchase another suitcase...which we needed anyway!).
Tip: Offer a ridiculous starting price and go in the morning. Have fun and enjoy it!
Last but not least, I visited The Olympic Park, a great source of pride for the Chinese and a symbol of their opening to the world. The 91,000 seat Olympic Stadium was nicknamed the Bird's Nest, as its structure resembles a Chinese delicacy. The opening ceremonies were held here for the Summer Games in 2008.
Bird's Nest, Beijing 2008
In Summary:
China will always amaze, fascinate, and thrill. This country encompasses virtually every type of terrain imaginable and is bordered by 14 other countries. The history here is so compelling. There is a low level of English spoken throughout China. Although China is a country with a long Buddhist tradition, these days only a small percentage of citizens consider themselves Buddhist. In fact, most Chinese do not follow any religion in particular. One of the things that surprised me most about Chins is the frenetic pace at which new roads and highways were being build, the advanced engineering projects that were underway, and the many tunnels and railways all in various phases of completion. In all, I took three inter-country flights. The country is vast and that is really the only way to get around. China is looking to upgrade their train networks, as a high-speed train was just introduced from Shanghai to Beijing.
My thoughts:
China will appeal to a traveler who is open-minded and interested in learning about a culture that is very different from their own. Read before you go. The more knowledge you have, the better able you are to understand its complex history. Speaking only English did not keep me from getting a healthy taste of the city, although the guides were invaluable. Throughout my time in China I had private guides and drivers. This is the norm and highly recommended...and not that expensive at the time of this writing. When traveling throughout, I had to keep in mind the challenges of traveling in a country with a history and culture so unlike our own. But that is the adventure which I so long for, and I woke up every morning with anticipation.
I have just ordered a book Life and Death in Shangha by Nien Chang. I can't seem to get enough of this destination. As I write this blog there are so many places from this journey that I would like to return to. Travel should expand your worldview, and that certainly has happened here!
