Oh, How I Miss Spain!
Planes, train, automobiles - this adventure it going to include it all and I must be on top of my game to independently navigate this itinerary.
My arrival into Barcelona, Spain's second largest city, does not disappoint. I observe that Barcelona is charming and elegant at the same time, as I view this glorious city on a quick cab ride from the airport to my hotel on Passeig de Gracia, one of the major avenues in Barcelona. Since it hosted the summer Olympics in 1992 Barcelona has been on the hot list of European destinations. Cosmopolitan and energetic, the major areas of this city flow effortlessly into one another. Antoni Gaudi and his architecture are unavoidably linked to Barcelona.
Areas not to be missed: Barcelona's harbor area, La Rambla, the heart of the city and the most famous boulevard, Barri Gotic, the oldest part of Barcelona with twisting ancient streets, the most important shopping area of Passeig de Gracia , the old town of Gracia and the area around La Sagrada Familia. If you love to walk this is the perfect city for you. Culture, art, parks, shops and restaurants are all packed into a very manageable size.
Tip: The Barcelona City double-decker tour bus offers over 44 stops to choose from where you can hop- on and hop- off all around the city. This is a great option as I explore the city and can spend as much time as I need in places of interest.
Montserrat
Fact: Feeling that they were discriminated against by the central governments in Madrid, many in the region are behind a movement to become an autonomous state. In 2011 the city of Barcelona officially abolished bullfighting, a further rejection of deep-rooted Spanish traditions.
Try to sample Barcelona Pinchos. Meaning "spike" or "thorn" in Spanish, a pincho refers to the cocktail toothpick that holds together the scrumptious Basque appetizers made up of bits of cheese, sausage, fish or vegetables stacked atop a morsel of bread. Each individual stack is about three bites worth.
On to Madrid, Spain's fun-loving capital and Europe's fourth largest city, offering nonstop activity literally all the time. As these days are beautiful it seems that everyone is lingering outdoors. The recipe for fantastic people watching has been created.
Retiro Park, Madrid
Though the city covers a large area, most of the attractions lie in the central part of the city known as El Centro. There are a dizzying array of museums and sights at your beckon call. In recent years Madrid has modernized and improved its infrastructure by enlarging the airport, extending the metro system and creating extensive riverside gardens and promenades.
In Madrid, the Madrid Card sightseeing pass now allows you to skip the lines at sights. The sights to see are the central Puerta Del Sol, Palacio Real de El Pardo and the nearby statue-lined Plaza de Oriente, the monumental arch that is Puerta de Alcala, and the 18th century fountains along Paseo del Prado. If you are a lover of art, you must see the Bosch and El Greco paintings at the Museo Nacional del Prado. I couldn't miss the opportunity to take a tour of the Real Madrid soccer stadium.
Tip: It's best to always have a map with you as buildings and streets are often without numbers. Before leaving your hotel have its exact street address. It goes without saying that it is quite helpful to know Spanish!
Madrid has some wonderful day trips to experience which include Avila, Toledo and Sergovia.
Highlight: Do spend an evening at one of Madrid's many roof-top bars.
To continue my adventure I board an early train from Madrid to Cordoba and relax in comfort as the seats are roomy and the cars are clean. It is in Cordoba that I pick up a rental car and with the help of a GPS (navigating would have been impossible without) I drive two hours through the countryside to Granada.
Built between the 13th and 15th centuries, the Ahlambra is a magnificent complex of palaces, with a fortress and gardens. Centuries of history and romance are present at every turn. "Exquisite" is the word that immediately comes to mind.
Alhambra, Granada
Tip: You must pre-reserve Alhambra tickets as they sell out in advance. With your ticket in hand you can bypass the mob scene at the main entrance.
Located in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, Granada offers wonderful winter sport possibilities. Its proximity to the Mediterranean Sea makes it a great destination year round.
Navigating south is not difficult, but as I approach Spain's Costa del Sol I do find my eyes straying as I am fascinated by the white-washed buildings hugging the Mediterranean coastline. It's hard to believe that not long ago this area was a series of quiet fishing settlements that today have been completely transformed. My time here will be brief but the anticipation for a day trip tomorrow to Tangier, Morocco has reached a peak.
At the crossroads of Africa and Europe, Morocco is twenty miles from the south cost of Spain and is a one hour ferry ride across the Strait of Gilbralter. It is the northernmost port in Africa and that is the reason that this trip can be accomplished in a day. Tangier is perhaps the most ancient city of Morocco. It's historical importance can not be underestimated due to its strategic location.
Tip: The port city of Tangier is struggling, and you will feel evidence of this as you are approached constantly. Take it all in stride as you want to spend your time soaking in the neighborhoods, full of history.
Exotic, unspoiled beaches, fascinating history, tremendous vistas...this is Morocco
Ronda, Spain is the next destination and the drive is about one hour from the coast. I am awestruck as the dramatic drive through the Sierra Bermejo Mountains leaves me speechless. Several times I pull to the side of the road to linger.The roads are narrow and winding. Do not attempt this in the dark as there are no street lights and you will not be able to enjoy the amazing scenery.
Ronda retains much of its historic charm, as the town is dramatically set in the mountains and perched on the El Tajo Gorge. Ronda's Old Town is situated in between Arab fortifications to the south and the El Tajo Gorge (350 feet deep) to the north and is best explored on foot. Be sure to bring comfortable walking shoes as the streets are cobbled and steep. The Guadelevin River runs through the city, dividing it into two. Ronda is intimate and romantic and the many alleys are not accessible for cars.
Visitors surely make a beeline for the 18th century Puente Nuevo Bridge which straddles the gorge below. The views out to the Serrania de Ronda Mountains are unparalleled.
Charming Ronda
I am sorry to leave Ronda but Seville is calling and I find the drive to be easy. I am beginning to feel that I need a GPS on my person as I attempt to navigate the twisting, narrow streets overhung by balconies, beautiful gardens, cafes and parks. After a time I no longer concern myself with my location as I take in the public squares that are full of diners and I no longer mind wandering aimlessly. What I have learned is that eating and drinking is serious business throughout Spain. Restaurants take advantage of the warm, dry climate and place most of their tables outside. Seville is the spiritual home of flamenco, a genre of music, song and dance noted for its energetic, staccato style.
Fact: American artists Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles spent many summers in Ronda as part-time residents and both wrote about Ronda's beauty and famous bull-fighting traditions. This has contributed to Ronda's popularity over time. The famous scene in Chapter 10 of Hemingway's "For Whom The Bell Tolls", describing the 1936 execution of Fascist sympathizers in a (fictional) village who are thrown off a cliff, is considered to be modeled on actual events at the time in Ronda.
Visitors surely make a beeline for the 18th century Puente Nuevo Bridge which straddles the gorge below. The views out to the Serrania de Ronda Mountains are unparalleled.
I am sorry to leave Ronda but Seville is calling and I find the drive to be easy. I am beginning to feel that I need a GPS on my person as I attempt to navigate the twisting, narrow streets overhung by balconies, beautiful gardens, cafes and parks. After a time I no longer concern myself with my location as I take in the public squares that are full of diners and I no longer mind wandering aimlessly. What I have learned is that eating and drinking is serious business throughout Spain. Restaurants take advantage of the warm, dry climate and place most of their tables outside. Seville is the spiritual home of flamenco, a genre of music, song and dance noted for its energetic, staccato style.
The city's cathedral is one of the world's largest in the Gothic style. Attached to the cathedral is the Giralda, a tower that once served as the minaret for the mosque that occupied the site before the cathedral was built. You can climb a series of interior ramps to the top of the tower. Just across the street is the Alcazar, a fortified palace of which construction began in the year 913. It is now the residence of His Royal Majesty Juan Carlos when he visits Seville. Together they form a monumental complex in the heart of Seville showcasing the Spanish "Golden Age".
Tip: Do not miss Plaza de Espana promoting the beauty of Spanish architecture. The complex is a huge half-circle with buildings running along the edge accessible over a moat by bridges scattered throughout. In the center is a large fountain. Scenes in the films Lawrence of Arabia, Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones, and The Dictator were shot here.
Bull Ring, Seville Spain
In Conclusion: Spain is a beautiful country but unless you are well versed in what it has to offer, you may miss some exceptional sights. I have contacts throughout Europe who can set up independent travel (on your own) as well as escorted tours that handle the details with ease. Customize your adventure in any way you wish. Please call me and I will be happy to discuss options with you!
kathymoran@kmorantravel.com 630.267.3054
