TAHITI & THE SOCIETY ISLANDS
No one looks forward to an eight hour flight, except maybe in a case such as this. Unlike most people, I really don’t want to look at all of the beautiful photos of a destination before I go. I guess the kid in me loves that element of surprise. Suffice it to say that I knew this destination was going to be a show-stopper; but what I saw over the next eight days far exceeded my expectations. Just how far was I venturing? Tahiti and the Society Islands: 5900 miles from Tokyo, 4000 miles from Los Angeles, 2400 miles from New Zealand, 3700 miles from Sydney, Australia, 9800 miles from Paris.
On the flight to Tahiti from Los Angeles I was thrilled to be sitting next to Flomos, the head pastry chef on our upcoming cruise. His story was amazing. He learned from his father, a well-known chef in his hometown in Greece. He had an uncanny ability from a very early age to bake and cook, and for the last eight years he has held positions of great importance on widely acclaimed cruise ships. For such responsibility on a prestigious cruise ship he was young, 32 years of age to be exact. I promised him that I would sample his wonderful creations while on board…. and I did!
Arriving in an airport after a long flight is invariably an exhausting experience. The upcoming adventure however, kept my energy level high. My welcome to paradise? A trio of Tahitian men, ukulele’s in hand, singing a warm Maeva (welcome) as a beautiful young woman handed out the tiare ma’ohi, a beautiful Tahitian flower which is a part of the welcoming ritual of the Polynesian culture. Be careful where you put the flower. If it is tucked behind the left ear this means that you are single, behind the right means you are taken. They are so proud of their paradise, and in many ways I’m still not sure that they understand the utopia that they wake up to daily. Their spirit is warm, they are always smiling, their lives are relatively stress-free and maybe this is why they project an enviable calm and happiness.
The first day I thoroughly enjoyed Papeete, Tahiti, the capital of French Polynesia. Only the sound of a crowing rooster right outside my window could wake me. Time to get up anyway and I was thrilled to discover that the market “Le Marche” is in the heart of Papeete and minutes from my hotel. The market opened at 5am and I was ready to explore. There are two floors of vendors with stands and display of fruits, vegetables ,oils, soaps, island purses, jewelry, clothing, of course Tahitian pearls, and so much more. For those who love to bargain, “Le Marche” is where you want to visit. It seems that just about everywhere I turned, the people of French Polynesia have their ukulela, a couple of friends, and are ready to break out in song. You see them on the street corner, at the market, to welcome us on and off the cruise ship, and probably most significantly when we arrive and depart from the small airport in Papeete, Tahiti. These small concerts really don’t look as if they are “organized” but rather anyone who is available stops by and contributes to the welcoming which the people of French Polynesia are known for.
The pristine lagoons of French Polynesia are known for their quality pearls which are harvested exclusively in these waters. The nutrients in the waters create a wide variety of natural pearl colors; cherry, cream, peacock, green, blue, gray and white. What is really unique here is that it is not only fashionable, but expected, that you create your own jewelry. Color choices for your pearl jewelry are a matter of personal taste. When I entered the Tahitian Pearl Market I simply could not believe what was in front of me! The stores in Tahiti show a selection of 150,000 loose pearls. These beautiful pearls come in all sizes, shapes, and colors. You can design your necklace according to your budget .They do not claim to be a jewelry store but a pearlery. There are dozens of setting and chains to choose from as it is expected that you design your own necklace, bracelets, earrings or rings. All sales people are trained to drill and set pearls. You start looking through the bins of pearls to see the different colors available to you. These precious gems come from the pearl farms in the islands. If you choose, you can instead select from finished Tahitian pearl jewelry. It’s all about choice and the women I spoke with loved this concept. I think the men just went along with the program.
By nature I love to watch people and in the harbor several blocks from the market there is plenty to observe. This day I am taken by the teenagers who show up in groups, with what we would call a boombox blaring Tahitian music, as they teach one another dance steps, laughing at their ridiculous attempts. Now remember that dance set to drums and conch shells is the soul of Tahitian culture. What was on display here was not the traditional dance that I would see over the next week, but rather an interpretation of their Tahitian dance. The people of French Polynesia are probably happiest when they are singing and dancing. The modern version was on display here, with enviable Michael Jackson moves. I simply could not believe how good these kids were! As I was to later learn, most young Tahitians look forward to the opportunity to learn English, if for no other reason than to understand the American songs.
Boarding the ship is an easy process and my Polynesian experience began immediately. I will be sailing with 330 passengers. As I explore the ship the atmosphere is luxurious and relaxed. There are 217 crew members onboard. No wonder this ship is renowned for world-class service! There is a small auditorium for live entertainment, a choice of three dining venues, several lounges and two piano bars, a small casino, fitness center, spa and library. The oceanview and balcony staterooms are spacious, with nearly 70% having balconies. One of the first things I noticed was that there was not a clock in my room and really only several throughout the ship. We talked about this amongst ourselves and concluded that this was purposeful. How better to truly understand the concept of “island time”? Toward the end of the cruise I was no longer asking for the time.
This 7-night itinerary is perfect if you want a core experience of French Polynesia. Ports of call: Papeete, Tahiti, Society Islands; Raiatea, Society Islands; Taha'a (Motu Mahana), Society Islands; Bora Bora, Society Islands; Moorea, Society Islands; Papeete, Tahiti, Society Islands.
On day 1 we sailed out of Papeete, Tahiti at 11pm giving us enough time for a welcome reception and dinner followed by a short show introducing the staff. When I reach my stateroom I found a chocolate left on my pillow as a turn-down gift. It is not any chocolate but rather a gift from the legend of Tohu, the God of the tattoo .As I was to find out on my journey, just about everything has meaning as the Tahitians of the modern era still maintain the heritage and traditions of their Maohi ancestors.The anticipation of sailing out to sea to discover a foreign land is exhilarating.
We sail overnight to the island of Raiatea. It seems that no matter what the time zone I am in, my inner clock is set for 5am and that is when I get up and head out to see the sun rise. The back of the ship is where continental breakfast is served every morning and that is where a group of early risers congregate. I ask for a cappuccino and make a mental note to seek out Flomos, the head pastry chef from Greece. I wish to thank him for the fresh chocolate chip croissants and lemon pastries that are melt-in-your-mouth "to die for".
On day 2 The goal of the cruise line it to immerse their guests in the French Polynesian culture through entertainment and lectures. My choices this morning are varied and I would like to make them all. Theere is a port talk explaining all of the activity options to choose from in Raiatea and Taha'a. Following that presentation the onboard naturalist is scheduled to discuss ”What to expect in French Polynesia”. The last morning presentation was a very informative seminar about Tahitian pearls, how they are created and how to choose them. We were than entertained from the local natives which was delightful.
The activity which was recommended to me by the excursion concierge was “Varied Exploration of The Island”. This gave me an opportunity to embark on a motorized outrigger canoe which glided over the waters of Raiatea’s deep blue lagoon towards the mouth of the Faaroa River, Polynesia’s only navigable river. To the ancient Polynesians, the island of Raiatea was considered the birthplace of the world and the religious center of the islands. Peppered throughout the islands are a number of legend filled temples or marae. We visited Tapatapuatea, the most important sacred site in the Society Islands where ceremonial sacrifices were held. We than hopped on the awaiting 4 by 4 vehicles for a tour of the interior of the island. Polynesian flowers were in full bloom and the mountains of Raiatea were beautiful and lush. All along the way we learned about the Tahitian society and the history of the maohi people. I wish we had more time on the island. There was a guided hike along Raitatea’s east coast in the Hamao Valley. The path continued next to the Hamoa River where you would be able to see the numerous waterfalls at the bottom of the valley. I am saving this for my next trip when I rediscover this intriguing island. Our ship spent the night in Raiatea which gave us more time to talk with the local merchants in town.
On Day 3 It is 5am (9am central time) and I am the first guest on Deck 8. The crew now knows me as “Miss Kathy” and they immediately make up a cappuccino for me. As others trickle back for a light breakfast we discuss our amazing adventures on Raiatea and what we have planned for Taha’a. Many have kindles, iPads, and of course cameras. I find this a perfect time to pull together my thoughts and plan my adventure for the day. Before I leave for the island today I would definitely like to hear the onboard naturalist discuss the sharks and rays of French Polynesia.
Taha’a has 4,470 inhabitants who live tranquil lives, fishing and raising livestock. Taha’a is often called the “vanilla island”, for its numerous plantations of “black gold”. Raiatea may be quiet, but Taha’a is quieter. The main tourist attraction is the string of beautiful motus along the northern reef edge. The many motu’s circling the island are among the most gorgeous in Polynesia and offer excellent diving and snorkeling opportunities. Raiatea lies within the same barrier reef as the island of Taha’a, a 20 minute ferry ride away.
I did sign up for "Exploration of Taha'a". We departed the pier by off-road vehicle and were driven across one of Taha’a’s highest mountains at a scenic viewpoint where we learned about the traditional uses of local plants and trees.
We sampled the various local fruits and learned the tamure, a Tahitian dance .Along the way we visited a small family vanilla plantation, followed by a visit to a small black pearl farm. From a “pearl surgeon” we learned how the pearls are cultivated and harvested. In my humble opinion the best way to see any island is to hop on a 4 by 4 to explore. The roads were unpaved with many potholes, but we are all in it for the adventure and snap the most beautiful photos throughout the tour.
Today the cruise has planned a day in paradise at motu mahana – where white sand, a sumptuous grill buffet and a floating bar await. The chefs have prepared a delicious grilled buffet barbecue lunch. Local mamas are ashore to sell trinkets. On the private island they have a coconut demonstration and tasting, how to make leis out of local fresh flowers, basket weaving, and strolling musicians and singers. Does it surprise you that the special for the day was a motu mahana massage, a peaceful relaxing massage on this private island?
Would you like a motu mahana massage?
I board the ship just in time for tea which daily includes finger sandwiches and pastries on the back of the ship. As we sail away from the Taha’a lagoon, there is an impromptu sunset party on deck 8, where we witness a lovely sunset overlooking motu mahana. The drink for the evening is a chi chi made with vodka ,coconut cream, pineapple juice, and a splash of grenadine.
On day 4 we simply cannot wait to explore Bora Bora. This is Polynesia’s most famous and glamorous island. Her lagoon is world-famous for its beauty. The main island rises from the center of a multi-colored lagoon, surrounded by off-shore motus (islands) inside protective coral. Bora Bora lies 150 miles northwest of Tahiti and is an eroded cone of an extinct volcano. The ancient Polynesians thought that this island was the first island created after Raiatea. Captain Cook first discovered this island in 1769. The London missionary society arrived in 1820 and most of the islanders converted to Protestantism. The island was annexed by the French in 1888. There are 9 million people who live on Bora Bora and the island itself is 7 million years old.
Excursions on this island are endless, as guests are encouraged to be fitted for their own snorkeling equipment to be used for the duration of the cruise. Your choices for the day include jungle hikes, catamaran sail and snorkel, ATV guided tours, car, buggy and scooter rental, 4-wheel drive island safari tour, scuba diving, underwater life discovery tours, and jet skiing.
I again sign up for an off-road adventure as I remind myself that I am on a business trip and I really do need to understand the islands. This back road adventure was far more treacherous than the others. The views were without a doubt the most spectacular.
I again sign up for an off-road adventure as I remind myself that I am on a business trip and I really do need to understand the islands. This back road adventure was far more treacherous than the others. The views were without a doubt the most spectacular.
My afternoon is packed as I tender back to the ship and take another tender over to the ship’s private white-sand motu off the coast of the island. I brought a book but all I could do was admire Bora Bora’s postcard perfect scenery from across the crystal-clear turquoise lagoon.
A tour of the galley is scheduled for later this afternoon. We had to sign up for this in advance and I immediately did so when I arrived on the ship. The executive chef, Grant Chilcott, explained the inner workings of the kitchen and the herculean efforts the crew takes to serve the guests literally around the clock. I was surprised to hear that 1/3 of guests order room service for breakfast. I’m not sure if I was most impressed by the fact that they squeeze 200 pounds of fresh orange juice daily,or that the breads and pastries are all made fresh daily ( frozen is not a word they use here) ,or that they attempt to catch fresh fish to use for dinner, or by the cumbersome but extremely important requirements regarding food safety which includes hourly logs. Starting with breakfast at 6am , then lunch, followed by light snacks, than afternoon tea at 4pm, followed by pre-dinner appetizers, than the always fabulous gourmet dinner offerings...oh by the way, did I mention the 24 hour room service? We all know that at this point we are spoiled. Next I am off to a bridge tour where the ship captain and his men work to keep us safe and on course. Technology has really changed the way that the ship operates. They are fully prepared for any emergency whether it be a fire on board or an unfriendly ship. After the tour I had an opportunity to talk with the Captain Toni Mirkovic who lives in Dubrovnik. I told him of my wonderful tour in Croatia and Slovenia in November. He had all kinds of useful tips regarding the exploration of the Adriatic coast and the operators to use.
Than on to listen to a most interesting lecture given by Denis Schneider on “The Perils of The Corals In The French Polyniesia”. He is a marine biologist and is passionate about preserving the beautiful fish and corals which are a large part of the intrigue of these islands. The star fish, while it has many uses in balancing the ecosystem, feeds on the coral, and the overabundance of them in the past few years has created an environmental problem. Mr Schneider works very closely with the hotels on Bora Bora, as the view of the ever-popular water bungalow can be greatly affected by this.
Day 5 in Bora Bora I have devoted to visiting properties, all of them on motu’s (private islands). There is quite a bit of scheduling to be done as you have to receive clearance to visit the properties, and than coordinate your arrival with their boat transportation. Than we were transferred back to the main island via boat, where we had to catch the next transfer to visit another property. Many find Bora Bora enchanting because of this exclusivity and the effort was worth it. These properties each have their own uniqueness. I have many notes from these visits to share with my clients.
After a full day of visiting resorts, I am thinking that a monoi head massage would feel good right about now. Monoi is a pure coconut oil and it is the Tahitian’s beauty secret. (Of course on the way to the airport I stopped at a local shop and purchased a few bottles.) Apparently the benefits of the coconut oil penetrates into the scalp and restores elasticity and shine. I than became conflicted as I thought that a Bora Bora Deep Blue Massage, based on the benefits of sea water and marine elements, sounded excellent. How could you doubt the benefits of a massage which included seawater, marine mud and seaweed?
On Day 6 we arrive in Moorea and are greeted by Polynesian men in canoes.Everyone smiles at this.
Moorea is an island covered in an abundance of fresh fruits and flowers, spectacular mountain peaks, peaceful multi-colored lagoons and palm-fringed beaches. Again our excursion options were endless and you might wish to shop for local crafts, embark on a dolphin-watching expedition with a marine biologist, or try out some of the local pineapples - said to be the most delicious in all of French Polynesia. The mountain slopes are covered with pineapple plantations. The island of Moorea has lush vegetation and an endless skyline. It rises above the spectacular twin bays of Opunohu and Cook. Land activities are numerous with hiking the trails to ancient ruins or a drive,to the stunning Belvedere Lookout. The island is an ancient volcano and the two bays are craters taken by the sea. These bays have been used by many film makers as backdrops for their productions. Over millions of years the island has eroded into cliffs and jagged peaks. Perhaps the most famous peak to be seen on the island is that of mouaroa, better known to many as “Bali Hai”. Moorea measures appoximately 10 miles on each side. The lush tropical vegetation, white sandy beaches and small villages spread along the coast make the 37 miles drive (one road) most exhilarating .What better way to see the island than to rent a car for the day? I not only was able to explore the island, but also was able to visit five properties.
Tonight is Polynesian night as everyone dresses for the theme. The dinner menu gives you a choice of broiled lobster tail with Taha’a vanilla sauce, mahi mahi on green pota with caramelized banana polenta or moorean vegetable stir fry. The dessert choices are warm chocolate fondant with papaya fruit sauce and vanilla ice cream or Tahitian passion fruit cheesecake. The evening was capped off with a show featuring Polynesian dancers of all ages along with their beautiful voices and instruments.
Polynesian Night
Day 7 is my own personal day at sea where I look forward to reading a book, preparing my notes from this fabulous experience, and reflecting as I ponder the landscape. At present, Tahiti and the Society Islands are owned by the French government and its people are therefore French citizens. French Polynesia has its own government with its own president, currency (French Franc) and its own laws. French and Tahitian are the official languages in Tahiti and the Society Islands. The further away from Papeete, Tahiti you go, the more Tahitian and the less French you will hear spoken. I found out that many residents of France come out to Tahiti to retire, often at relatively young ages. What is the weather like? As with many tropical islands, Tahiti has a sunny, warm and humid climate throughout the year, but you will never be uncomfortable with the heat because of the cool trade winds. The summer season lasts from November to April and the highest temperature is rarely above 93 degrees. The islands we visited had lush green rainforests, however rain was almost nonexistent for the week we visited. You simply cannot single out a single season as the best time to visit, as the weather is almost the same throughout the year and it is impossible to predict when it is going to rain. I love the fact that we were in port for one night in Raiatea, Moorea, and Papeete,Tahiti, and two nights in Bora Bora. The entertainment on the ship is an offering not to be missed, whether it be the welcome aboard party, songs and dances from ancient Tahiti, cocktail receptions every evening with wonderful Polynesian specialty drinks, or the captain’s dinner the final evening. The ship was basically all-inclusive. Beverages were complimentary, all onboard gratuities were included, room service was complimentary throughout the day, and an in-suite bar setup and butler service was offered in certain categories. It was on this unforgettable adventure and during our 7-night voyage we had the opportunity to uncover Tahitian wonders, the gods of Raiatean, the stunning water and reefs of Bora Bora, and the breath-taking peaks and bays of Moorea.
In the end guests enjoyed a seamless island vacation experience of the highest caliber. It was on this day that we capped off our journey where it all began.
