Galapagos Expedition!
many more small islands, lie along the equator 600 miles west of Ecuador,
South America. Identified geologically as one of the Earth’s “hot spots”,
the Galapagos constitute one of the most active set of oceanic volcanoes
in the world.
It’s been well documented that the Galapagos Islands are very unique in
the world. The ocean-going yacht we journeyed on, the Evolution, allowed
access to islands where larger cruise ships are prohibited. Our expedition
included twenty-six individuals from all over the United States. The Thurber
family brought so much life to the expedition (grandparents, sons/spouses
and six grandchildren), another family with adult siblings and significant
others (six in total), a grandmother(Suzanne) and her grandson (Jonah),
a mother (Elizabeth) with her daughter (Ava) and a retired professor from
the University of Wisconsin (Raymond) with his lovely wife, Leah. Wonderful
friendships were formed as we dined exquisitely and shared the joy of
discovering wildlife and birds that are completely unafraid of people. We
learned from highly-educated, local guides “Boli” Sanchez and Cristina, who
were passionate about the islands and licensed at the highest level by Galapagos
National Park. Our naturalists were with us at all times, patiently answering
hundreds of questions which helped us gain a deeper understanding of the
truly unique area we were exploring! Every evening we had a 7:00 naturalist
briefing, to learn about our adventure for the next day, followed by a delicious
dinner.
We had exciting daily excursions which included nature walks, hikes, snorkeling,
kayaking and swimming – with the flexibility to choose between activities. The
Evolution’s 26 guests were able to quickly board pangas to follow whales
(they were so close!!) and to watch blue-footed boobies “dive bombing” for food.
Did I mention that during our expedition, the Evolution sailed over the equator three
times?!?
Guayaquil/San Cristobal/Cerro Brujo, Saturday August 14, 2010
After breakfast at the Oro Verdo in Guayaquil, Ecuador, we transferred to
the airport and flew to the Galapagos Islands. We began our expedition in
the capital of the Galapagos Islands, a small town of about 7000 people. Our
crew met us at San Cristobal Island and they escorted us on a short bus trip
to the harbor, where our 32-guest (16 cabins) expedition ship awaited us.
This afternoon we sailed past Kicker Rock before experiencing a wet landing
on a coral sandy beach of Cerro Brujo. We saw blue-footed boobies, yellow
warblers and finches. We interacted with playful sea lions on a sunset stroll
along the beach. Then, back on board for a welcome cocktail and official
presentation of the Captain and crew, followed by a delicious dinner.
Espanola (Hood) Island: Punta Suarez and Gardner Bay, Sunday August 15, 2010
The oldest and southernmost island Punta Suarez on Hood Island, holds one
of the most diverse seabird colonies. This morning we waded ashore through
a large sea lion colony. The curious Hood mockingbird, found only here,
was present. We also saw Galapagos doves, Galapagos hawks and the
red-colored species of marine iguana that is found only here. There were huge
waved albatross nests, present between April and December. Albatrosses are
graceful in the air but back-heavy and ungainly on land. Because they are
unable to launch themselves into flight from the ground, they must waddle to
a cliff and jump off the edge! We walked to Espanola’s famous blowhole,
where incoming waves spout 90 feet into the air. In the afternoon we visited
Gardner Bay on Hood Island, where we relaxed on the beach and snorkeled
among sea lions. Dominant male sea lions mark out territories along the shore
and patrol them noisily, defending against other males who might want to
invade their harem. Naturalist guides were on hand to answer questions about
the many species of birds we were viewing through our binoculars. They also
pointed out the different fish while we were snorkeling. Back on board for
snacks, fresh squeezed coconut juice and a refreshing shower.
Santa Cruz Island, Monday August 16, 2010
Today we visited Santa Cruz Island. It has a population of about 16,000 people
and Puerto Ayora (its largest city) is the economic capital of the Galapagos.
We began with a drive to the highlands to see a very different side of the
Galapagos: the forested highlands. We saw giant tortoises in the wild and
had ample opportunity t photograph the tortoises in their habitat. We visited
two sink holes located in the Scalesia forest, an excellent place to spot the
Vermillion flycatcher and many of the famous “Darwin finches” .After an
afternoon lunch in the highlands, we had time to walk and see the famous
Galapagos giant tortoises in their natural habitat. Then, back to our bus for
a 30 minute drive, to see a most interesting geological formation, the
“natural lava tunnel”. We walked underground exploring this unique formation.
Back on the Evolution for a naturalist brief and a delicious dinner.
Back on the Evolution for a naturalist brief and a delicious dinner.
Santiango, Tuesday August 17, 2010
Darwin’s favorite island. Wet landing from the panga. We all ventured on a
two hour walk to see the fur seal grotto. We also saw marine iguanas, sea
lions blue footed boobies and the endemic Galapagos hawk. After walking,
some swam, snorkeled or read books along the beach. In the afternoon, we
visited Bartolome, a small volcanic island located off the east coast of
Santiago. Here we had an opportunity to swim with penguins. The water
was pristine and smooth, great for kayaking. In the late afternoon we hiked
uphill to a summit (371 steps, 1 mile). The summit had a magnificent volcanic
view of Pinnacle Rock.Back on board for snacks and refreshmen
Genovesa, Wednesday August 18, 2010
A full day on pristine Genovesa Island which is not included in most itineraries.
Today the Evolution was anchored in an old volcanic crater. Genovesa is home
to more than a million seabirds, as we were steps away from red-footed boobies
and short-eared owls. We snorkeled in beautifully calm waters, among sea lions
and fish. We also kayaked along Darwin’s Bay Cliffs, where we saw frigate-
birds and boobies, as well as sea lions and little marine iguanas. In the afternoon
we were strongly encouraged to take an afternoon siesta….and I did…on the
inviting sun deck of the Evolution. In the later afternoon we had a wet landing
on coral pebbles. Countless chances for amazing photography. This area had
a large booby colony, swallow tailed gulls, finches, sea lions and beautiful
tide pools.
Fernandina, Thursday August 19, 2010
On our morning excursion to Punta Espinosa, the youngest of the islands
with the most recent volcanic activity, our guides spotted whale activity.
Thus we changed course and spent 45 minutes in our pangas videotaping whales that
with the most recent volcanic activity, our guides spotted whale activity.
Thus we changed course and spent 45 minutes in our pangas videotaping whales that
were gracefully swimming 20 feet from us. At one point a whale swam under
our panga!! On our hike, it was here that we saw an infant fur seal who had
been born 4 hours prior. In the afternoon we visited Isabela, the largest of the
Galapagos Islands with five active volcanoes. As we reached the Evolution,
appetizers and cocktails awaited us. We were in awe of what we had seen this
day. As the sun was lowering in the sky, Brendan and Ava walked to the bow
of the Evolution, hoping to see dolphins. They were not disappointed! Several
schools of dolphins swam in unison, just ahead of the vessel. This went on for
at least 20 minutes! Their show was beautifully choreographed. Fellow passengers
shouted out ratings, for their spectacular performance!
shouted out ratings, for their spectacular performance!
North Seymour and Black Turtle Cove, Friday August 20, 2010
This is the home of the Galapagos land iguanas and the magnificent frigate-birds. This is the only place where you can always find the male frigates showing their red pouches to attract the females. We also saw land iguanas, sea lions, marine iguanas, gulls and pelicans. The rock formations were tall and unusual, as there was plenty of opportunity to snorkel with sea turtles, rays….even a hammerhead shark! Boats of scuba divers made us realize how amazing this sight was for underwater exploration. In the afternoon we ventured to Black Turtle Cove, a wonderful site surrounded by a large mangrove swamp. Back on board for snacks and drinks. Farewell briefing by Boli and Crisitina, followed by cocktails and
dinner. On our journey, each meal boasted international and traditional Ecuadorian cuisine, fresh fruit and exotic desserts. Wonderful food at each meal provided much needed energy.
San Cristobal, August 21, 2010
We visited Darwn’s Interpreation Center. Here we learned even more about the island and their sad history. Although the Galapagos remained untouched by humans until fairly recently, the effects of humans short presence in the islands has been disastrous upon their fragile ecosystem. First the pirates of the 17th and 18th centuries, and then the whalers and sealers of the 19th, carried off thousands of giant tortoises to store as a source of fresh meat aboard ship. Also introduced were different types of mammals, such as rats, that disembarked involuntarily from the sailing ships, while others, like goats, were intentionally set free and ate much of the vegetation. At one point the Galapagos was a prison! A bus then took us to the airport for a 2 hour flight to Guayaquil, Ecuador. Then flight back to the U.S. The wildlife was amazingly approachable, not having learned to be frightened by humans. Oh, how I hope it stays this way!
